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Face-Off: BMW 135i vs Mazda MX-5

FaceOff_135_MX5.jpg

Participating in high-performance driving events and track days are not only a lot of fun, but they're also a great way to sharpen your overall driving skills. Getting the most out of a track day is mostly up to the driver and how willing they are to improve and how open they are to expert coaching. Having the right kind of car also helps.

So with a top-end budget of $40,000, Associate Editor Mark Takahashi and Photo Editor Kurt Niebuhr face-off to see which track day weapon reigns supreme. The pre-grid lineup consists of Takahashi in a BMW 135i, while Niebuhr hops in his Mazda MX-5.

Opening Statements:

Mark Takahashi for the BMW 135i: Wanna get good quick? Drive a BMW 135i around the track. It's that simple. A short wheelbase car with a responsive suspension and plenty of power means you'll get instant feedback on track. Get a turn right by braking at the right spot, with the right intensity, hit your marks on turn-in and track-out and you're rewarded generously. Get it wrong here or there and you'll feel it immediately.

135Int.jpgIt's this type of communication between driver and car that I look for in a track weapon. The 135i is ready to go right out of the box, and as a bonus, it's a nice car overall. It's still something you'd be OK with driving everyday and it won't make you look like you're driving a silly tuner car pulled off the SEMA floor.
The nice thing with the BMW is, it can progress with you. As

you become comfortable at its handling limits, just slap some sticky tires on it. Find that limit, and you can upgrade the suspension. From there, you can keep going with engine mods for more power. After that, well my friend, you're ready for some real racing in an SCCA, NASA or regional formula car series.

Kurt Niebuhr for the Mazda MX-5: My decision to choose the MX-5 did not come easily. We find ourselves in some heady times when it comes to sporty, possibly track-friendly cars. On the rear wheel drive front, Nissan has their 370Z and Hyundai has the Genesis Coupe in both turbo four and V6 configurations. Ford has their Mustang dialed in whether you opt for the healthy V6 or the stonking five liter V8. On the front wheel drive side of the card are many other strong contenders. The manic Mazdaspeed3 was the first thing that came to my mind for this challenge, but then I remembered the Cobalt SS (you have to drive one to appreciate how good it is) and the Mini Cooper S. And don't forget about the Honda Civic Si; it's still around and it's still special. I'll stop before I get into the all wheel drive contingent.

MiataInt.jpgIn the end I went with the simple and obvious choice, the MX-5. It's no longer the lightweight it once was, but at under 2500 pounds it is one of the lightest cars around as well as packing the most unfiltered and undiluted driving experience still available in a mainstream car. The MX-5 will work with you, showing you where you're good, but letting you know where you could be better without punishing you with spooky handling and unpredictability. It's lightweight will also helps parts like tired, brakes and wheel bearing to last longer, letting you spend your money on track days and fuel rather than costly upkeep.

Another bonus to the MX-5 are the many spec-racing classes that exist solely for MX-5's. Go-fast parts are available and so are instructors with the familiarity and the speed to set benchmarks to make you better and faster. I also forgot to mention the immense satisfaction of catching much faster cars on track with a little MX-5.

Rebuttals:
Takahashi:
MX-5? Really? Don't get me wrong, it's got great driving dynamics and is definitely a known quantity. I just wish they made one for men. Relax, I'm kidding, sort of. Your cute little tic-tac on wheels is fine for the beginner, but one you've graduated past its limits, there's only so far you can go. The BMW 135i has decidedly higher limits and therefore, has better staying power.

I'm sure that on the same tight and twisty technical course (let's say the Streets of Willow or an autocross), both cars would be equally matched. But what happens when you want to hit a high-horsepower track, like the big track at Willow Springs? You get left behind, that's what.
Yes, the Miata will teach you a very valuable lesson: conservation of momentum. In something that underpowered, you have to maintain your momentum as much as possible. And that makes you a smoother driver, and in turn, a faster one. But the BMW will teach you the same lessons if you upshift an extra gear.

Niebuhr: What can I say about the 135i? Well, for starters it's really expensive. That bottom of the barrel Bimmer will be tough to get out the door for less than 40 thousand dollars. That's 40 large for a car that could very well wind up in the wall the first time you hit the track. Maybe this is just me and my emaciated wallet talking but I just wouldn't want to take that risk.

It's also too heavy. At nearly 3400 it's nearly 1000 pounds (!) heavier than the MX-5. Oh sure, the Bimmer's got the motor to deal with the weight, but the extra half ton will take its toll after a track day or two. If you don't burn through a set of tires first ($1,000), you'll lay waste to a set of brakes in no time. Not to mention wheel bearings, axle seals and anything else that will be hurt by all the heat generated by charging that car around a race track.

One more thing; it's too fast. What? Yes, too fast. Having all that power will do nothing more than to mask any mistakes you're making. Rather than learning a better line or working on your braking, you'll simply use the power to pass less powerful cars but better driven cars on every straightaway. Sure, you might be one of the fast cars on the track, but unless you're diligent and really seek out instruction, it would be all too easy to become just another mediocre driver with a fast car.

Oh, and another thing. You talk about buying go-fast parts to better the car's performance as your lust for speed, and hopefully your ability, increases. Have you priced BMW aftermarket parts? Rumor has it they're all made of gold and laced with unobtanium because they cost unbelievable amounts of money when compared to MX-5 parts. Did I mention the MX-5 is fifteen thousand dollars less? That's a lot of track days.

So who wins? Vote now!

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19 Comments
19 Comments

By sabastian

on August 30, 2010
08:24 AM

If this were a simple "Which car is better?" kind of faceoff, then I would go for the BMW and its broader range of talents. Since we're talking track days, the nod has to go to the car that actually has its own race series. Mazda it is.

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By blueguydotcom

on August 30, 2010
08:54 AM

135i with leather, ipod, M-package and 6 speed is 38k US. So via ED it's a 32500 car. BMWCCA rebate and it's a 32k car. That's a long way below 40k.

Not a fan though as a 128i is lighter, more responsive and in my opinion the engine is more fun to play with.

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By sabastian

on August 30, 2010
11:47 AM

Blueguy, did BMW used to have better deals for ED? Their website now only shows a $2,525 savings on the 135i using that program.

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By mike_se7en

on August 30, 2010
12:38 PM

In this case, I've driven both. For me, it'd have to be Miata, despite the addictive power of the 135i. The MX-5 just feels more "pure" in every way, mostly thanks to the weight savings. I had fun in the BMW, but I had a blast in the Mazda.

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By whoosierdaddy

on August 30, 2010
01:03 PM

There are a lot of tuners around who specialize in the Miata/MX5. You want lots more power? Check. Suspension & rubber to go with it? Check. Just bring a big enough...check.

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By blueguydotcom

on August 30, 2010
01:15 PM

@sabastian,

No change - the site's pricing is just as silly as the MSRP pricing. You don't use BMW's ED site for getting ED wholesale pricing. 14-15% off MSRP is the norm - phone and email to get it. Just as nobody pays MSRP for a BMW, nobody pays the official ED price either.

If you bought a BMW ED for the prices on the site you'd be handing a dealer about 5k for doing nothing more than placing a car order.

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By subytrojan

on August 30, 2010
06:51 PM

I am going to vote Mazda MX-5 in a close one!

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By slickersdrip

on August 30, 2010
09:43 PM

Gotta take the MX-5.

If you want an MX-5 "made for men" then buy an RX-8. That's what I did for the simple fact that my 6'4" 190 pound self couldn't fit in one comfortably. With my previous cars I've gone for the fastest thing for the money, but something so perfectly balanced and fun does the true enthusiast in me well.

Well, until I get my GReddy turbo installed on the RX-8...

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By borisbjd

on August 31, 2010
03:28 AM

The BMW is powerful but the MX-5 is the one I'd pick for it's light weight, it's simplicity and of course the reliability that comes with simplicity.

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By opfreakx

on August 31, 2010
05:43 AM

@blueguydotcom

your way wrong.

From the price list:

Base Price- 135i coupe $36050.
Euro Price- 135i coupe $33525

how you are going to add 4k in options and pay 1.5k is amazing.

If you find a dealer thats willing to do that, let me know, I'll buy one today.

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By blueguydotcom

on August 31, 2010
07:22 AM

optfreak - lol. I've done ED. It's ~15% off MSRP. Dealers generally take $800-1000 profit on ED deals (if you deal with the internet/sales manager). What you just cited would give the dealer about 4k profit.

Again, done it and spend a lot of time dealing with/helping folks on ED. My last ED car had a sticker of 43k and I got the car for 36.5k. The official ED price on the BMW site was something awful like 39-40k.

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By joemt

on August 31, 2010
03:06 PM

@blueguydotcom

So, when you negotiated the ED, you had the best American delivery price in mind and then took off 15%?

BTW, BMW's ED site claims up to 7% off retail while Audi cites only 3-5%.

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By blueguydotcom

on August 31, 2010
10:29 PM

Visit Bimmerfest.com's forums as they have entire section devoted to ED. If you take US MSRP and multiply by .85 you'll get about what ED costs with some dealer profit.

If you really want to be precise you need to find the now verboten (used to be widely published) wholesale info sheet on each car, which included ED wholesale pricing. With that you can easily spec a car (all options are done at invoice price), tack on $700-1000, get a solid price (don't forget shipping, which is the same as the US price) and then call a dealer and ask for the internet manager. Give him the specs and tell him when you want to pick up. Either he'll take the offer or he won't.

It generally works out to about 15%.

There are a few dealers who do a ton of ED sales and some who won't go near them (1k profit isn't enough for them apparently). The Bimmerfest site is a great source for this.

Why are people acting like this is new information? This is extremely well documented online (and experienced by many frequent edmunds townhall members).

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By opfreakx

on September 1, 2010
04:42 AM

bluedotguy

The reason i'm questioning you, is because I have done research @ bimmerfest. most people there claim that a good deal is getting the ED price (which I listed from the now harder to find sheets), and ADD ~500 dollars for dealer profit. You seem to be saying to take that ED price and subtract money from it.

Again, the numbers I gave you were from a price sheet.

if theres a different way of getting a hold of you let me know, because i'm insterested to find out if what I was reading was wrong.

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By blueguydotcom

on September 1, 2010
07:48 AM

@opt,

I'm not sure how you could spend time at Bimmerfest ED section and walk away thinking the BMW website price for a 1 series is what people at Bimmerfest pay.

Take the US MSRP and multiply by .85. That gives you about 15% off. That's the price for ED. This is clearly defined on the wiki and at Bimmerfest

US MSRP = 36050
US Invoice = 33165
ED MSRP (on site) = 33525
ED Wholesale = ~30640-30840 (if you really dig around online you can find wholesale sheets).

You're looking at the official BMWUSA Euro price not the WHOLESALE ED price. The 33525 price you're showing is the customer-side price. That's officially what joe blow off the street pays. Just like MSRP it's way, way, way off from what you can get the car for.

Maybe you should visit BM again just post a simple query. You'll get a very different number than the BMWUSA official ED price. Because just like MSRP, the ED price is massively marked up.

From Bimmerfest's wiki on ED:
"1....ED WHOLESALE price will be very close to US WHOLESALE price minus 7%.
2. On the Confidential Wholesale Price page, find the "Base Price Euro Delivery Price Munich Pick Up" price for the car you want."

http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php/ED_Order

There also sponsors on that site who will gladly tell you upfront what the wholesale Munich pick up price is.

If this doesn't help, you could also visit the ED boards here. Many folks on the BMW ED board have done it and will explain it to you just as I have.

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By opfreakx

on September 1, 2010
08:04 AM

Thanks Bluedotguy, I see where I was wrong now. Didn't see the difference between price sheets.

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By blueguydotcom

on September 1, 2010
09:41 AM

No problem. If you do it, you'll have an amazing time. My wife is talking about doing it again in 2012 for a 1, 3 or X1. We'd make a family trip of it as my father-in-law has a longterm deal going in the UK so we'd hit Munich, get the car, then visit France and finally on to the UK.

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By satch4

on September 3, 2010
04:46 PM

It's the 135i for the reasons already stated. The Mazda may be lighter and cheaper but the 135i still has that second skin responsiveness, feel and communication. You will learn more about the dynamics of racing and will, in my opinion, become a better driver quicker with the 135i. Then there is the intoxicating power.....

Oh, and if you can't afford to stuff it into a wall, either don't track it or get event insurance.

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By iliketodrive

on September 25, 2010
04:54 AM

I just went through this same exact decision. I could have upgraded from my current car to the 135i for $20k or just kept my current car and added the MX-5 for slightly more as a "fun" car.

I test drove each car repeatedly. The MX-5 may get the nod as a pure track car, but on my Pennsylvania roads it just bounces and vibrates you to death. I could not find any real "fun"in this car and quickly realized I probably wasn't going to use it much because of this, so what was the point in getting it?

I went with the 135i for it's better blend of torque, ride and handling in everyday real driving. Automobile magazine had it right when they said 135i with DCT is the perfect daily driver and great back road burner. If your going to have fun, why not have fun all the time!

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