Long-Term Road Tests - 2008 Scion xB: DIY Oil Change

2008 Scion xB: DIY Oil Change

I'm on my way home from the office, about to spend the next few days on vacation with my family in our 2008 Scion xB, when I notice the "Maint Reqd" lamp was on. Oh dear. I hate it when my maint gets reqd.

A sticker in the top corner of the windshield indicates the next oil change is due at ... the exact same mileage now displayed on my odometer. What a co-inky-dink. Too late to turn back now. I guess I'll do it myself.

Just before I arrive home, I stop in at the auto parts store. For $19.14, I walk out with a filter, 4 quarts of the recommended 5w-20 motor oil and a 2-foot long receipt. (Why do they do that?) Since the Scion has just broken 15,000 miles, I'm going to do the other things on the maintenance schedule while I'm at it: rotate the tires and inspect the brakes, brake hoses, tie rod and axle boots, etc.

I've done this before. I've got the tools: a floor jack, jack stands, a 14mm box wrench for the drain plug, an oil filter wrench, a screwdriver for the wheel caps, a speed handle/breaking bar and 21mm socket to remove the wheels and a screw-top drain pan to get the waste oil to a disposal point without spilling.

The right stuff: the oil fliter wrench is key. A screw top oil drain pan and a speed handle breaking bar are my secret weapons.

It's going well. I find the filter on the front of the engine, just below the air-conditioning compressor. A flap in the splash guard needs to have three button-clips pried loose with the screwdriver before I can get my hand in there. The filter comes off easily with the oil-filter wrench.

The new filter I bought, however, is problematic. It only spins on 1 1/4 turns before the seal makes contact. Thats not enough. I recheck the old one I just took off. It spins 2 3/4 turns before the seal makes contact. I decide to go and buy a genuine Toyota filter for the xB.

Hard to see it here, but the threaded portion is set deeper on the Purolator I bought (left), so it doesn't engage many threads before it seats.

The Toyota part costs just $5.19, and that includes a new drain plug washer. The Purolator that I'm now leery of, the cheapest of three options I had at the auto parts store, cost $4.99--without a new drain plug washer. Not a bargain at all, really. And when I peer inside, the new Toyota filter has a visible check valve in there. The aftermarket filter has nothing of the sort.

I get a more-reassuring 2 3/4 turns on the new Toyota filter before it seats and I crank it down the required 3/4 turn more. With a new washer on the drain plug, the oil poured-in and the "Maint Reqd" lamp reset (a one minute procedure found on page 99 of the owner's manual,) I'm done with part A.

Rotating the tires is simple enough, as my "real" floor jack can lift the side of the car up high enough to allow me to make a direct front-to-back swap. During the process, I check the brakes and all of the rubber boots and hoses on the list. No leaks, nothing is loose or cracked. Everything looks new.

Like just about every car these days, the Scion has TPMS sensors in the wheels. Rotating the tires moves the sensors around, but the system is smart enough to deal with that. I don't have to reset anything.

I'm done in 50 minutes, with photo breaks included. If you count the time trudging to the nearest Toyota dealer to get the second filter, add 39 more. While at the dealership, I asked how much they charged for an oil change and tire rotation: $39.99 and $20.00, respectively.

How much does my dealer charge for a 15,000 mile service? $159.99. But that includes a lot of stuff NOT listed in the Scion scheduled maintenance guide. A new air filter was one of several premature items on the list. In fact, the maintenance guide only requires an air filter inspection at 15,000 miles, and only if the car was subject to severe service.

Lessons learned? Always buy your filters from the dealer. Buy several at once to cut down on future trips. If you'll have the dealer do your service, know what the maintenance schedule really says and order your service a la carte if the package price seems too high or includes too many premature or ambiguous items.

Total Cost:

$24.73 (Subtract $5.38 for the second filter and chalk it up to experience for a total of $19.35)

50 minutes of time (add 39 for the trip to the dealer for the second filter)

1 drop of blood (I always smash my knuckles on something)

5 drops of oil on my driveway (I keep kitty litter handy)

1 drop of oil on my jeans (I wear old ones)

4 quarts of oil to dispose of properly

Dan Edmunds, Director of Vehicle Testing @ 15,427 miles

Posted by Dan Mar 25, 2008 1:41 pm

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Categories: 2008 Scion xB

Comments

trackwrex - Mar 29, 2008 10:22 am (#32 Total: 32)

Here, there and everywhere in sunny, Southern California... Usually found going at Warp Factor 10.

excellent write-up dan!! very in-depth and informative.

actualsize - Mar 28, 2008 4:53 pm (#31 Total: 32)

I took the used oil to an auto parts store. It wasn't the same one I bought the new oil at, but they didn't care. There was no charge. But they wouldn't take the used oil filter.

Interesting how "Premium Plus" can be the cheap one. Ah, marketing!

karjunkie - Mar 27, 2008 8:33 am (#30 Total: 32)

Interestingly, Purolator makes the oil filters for Toyota. The problem is Dan bought the cheapo version, PremiumPlus. The Purolator PlusOne is the equivalent to the OEM Toyota filter and is a very good filter. Mobi1 and K&N are identical and very good filters. They are made by Champion Industries (no relation to the spark plug company)

SubyTrojan - Mar 26, 2008 7:25 pm (#29 Total: 32)

Santa Monica, CA, USA

You made a good point about the OEM oil filter, Dan. A lot of it depends on the supplier of the filter. Subaru of America had a little fiasco in late 2005/early 2006 when it distributed leaky rebadged Purolator filters with no pressure release valve (PRV)/check valve to their dealerships. They recalled those filters and reverted back to the filters they were using before which were made by Toyko Roki.

cruiserhead1, Edmunds' editors and contributors have a wealth of maintenance and how-to articles at the link below.
http://www.edmunds.com/carownership.html

cruiserhead1 - Mar 26, 2008 6:21 pm (#28 Total: 32)

GREAT BLOG ENTRY!
I think the auto press should educate and show owners how simple it is to DIY routine maintence. It doesn't take any more time than going somewhere and waiting, wasting time while being A LOT cheaper.
You also have the satisfaction of knowing it was done right.

I do all my own maintence and enjoy it. It also saves tremendous amounts of money as well as being able to troubleshoot and fix things without feeling helpless or at the mercy of a mechanic.

by the way, I only use OEM TOYOTA filters. As you found, the price difference is negligible but the quality is not!

You can also do faster oil changes by using a vacuum oil changer pump. If you can reach the filter from the top, you never have to crawl under the car for changes.

duh_rel - Mar 26, 2008 3:39 pm (#27 Total: 32)

I love seeing this DYI posts. Good job!

In California, Certified Used Oil Collection Centers will actually buy your used oil. Albeit for pennies a gallon.

-Darrell

desmolicious - Mar 26, 2008 1:36 pm (#26 Total: 32)

In CA there a numerous free drop off places for used motor oil and other hazardous waste items. Not a problem.
One thing that I think was overlooked was how cool it is that the Scion allows you to reset the maintenance light. Most mfgs need a special tool and/or a trip to the dealer for that.

karjunkie - Mar 26, 2008 11:42 am (#25 Total: 32)

In Florida, any auto store that sells oil has to take waste oil in. I assume it's the same in most states.

banhugh - Mar 26, 2008 11:26 am (#24 Total: 32)

Congratulation for the DIY oil change. If you had a torque wrench to torque the wheels to the specified limits you would have been perfect.

What do you do with the old oil? Sure, dispose it properly but where? Do local gas stations-repair shops accept it? What's the cost of that?

ivannachoo - Mar 26, 2008 9:59 am (#23 Total: 32)

Oil is carcinogenic?!?! Why didn't someone tell me before?! Dang.... Thanks for the info. Here's a little link I found:
http://www.purdue.edu/dp/envirosoft/housewaste/house/motoroil.htm

karjunkie - Mar 26, 2008 7:07 am (#22 Total: 32)

Good post, I am a big fan of doing my own oil changes. But you forgot an important note: always wear rubber gloves to avoid contact with the used oil. It is carcinogenic and frequent contact can produce skin cancer.

vvk - Mar 26, 2008 6:36 am (#21 Total: 32)

Do ALWAYS buy OEM oil filters. Especially if the car is under warranty. One time my oil filter failed and it was an aftermarket unit. Even though I got lucky and it did not damage the engine, I still had to pay for a tow to the dealer, a diagnostic charge and for oil change. Had I used a genuine OEM oil filter, all that would have been covered under warranty. Besides, OEM oil filter is much better and normally costs about the same as an aftermarket filter, especially if purchased in bulk. And you know it will fit and work as specified by the manufacturer.

sandcountry360 - Mar 26, 2008 5:54 am (#20 Total: 32)

Mohaji- You should consider using NAPA filters. Wix makes NAPA brand filters, and they're usually a little bit cheaper. It's what I use (when I can get to a NAPA store, otherwise it's Mobil 1). And they're made in NC (near me!) so you know they're High Quality!

opfreak - Mar 26, 2008 4:55 am (#19 Total: 32)

if I was using dino oil. I'd go to a quicky lube or dealer on sale.

but a mobil one change I can do for ~30 dollars with a mobil 1 filter. That would cost me at least double anywhere else.

jaguar36 - Mar 26, 2008 4:38 am (#18 Total: 32)

United States of America

I'm all for doing things your selves, espcialy things like rotating your tires that dealers way over charge you for. But I've stopped doing my oil changes, its jsut not worth it. You saved what 70 cents? Sure you probaly got better oil, and I enjoy working on my car too, but changing the oil is a messy dirty job that I've never gotten any real enjoyment out of.

Regarding overzealous shop guys with impact wrench, my real concern is that I'll get a flat tire, and won't be able to get the lug nuts off with the factory lug wrench.

actualsize - Mar 25, 2008 10:06 pm (#17 Total: 32)

I've heard about the check valve issue before, but I've never had the problem of too little thread engagement in an aftermarket filter. But now that it has happened, I've got to think the automaker is in a better position to know the required dimensions and filtering needs of their engines than any third party. All of the other choices I saw at my auto parts store cost more than the Toyota part. Why risk it, especially if there isn't a cost savings?

And the Toyota filter has a real o-ring, not a flat seal, and it came pre-lubed and was sealed with a piece of cellophane to keep dirt out. The other one was a filter in a box.

mohaji - Mar 25, 2008 9:39 pm (#16 Total: 32)

I've used wix filter for my Fit.
It seems to be constructed very well, and priced high as well(for a small filter).

Often use Chrysler OE filters for cars, but made an exception for my own. :)

Certain F(ram) brand manufactures for other high end brands as well, so it's not a sure fire thing that you will get the best filter for more money.

benson2175 - Mar 25, 2008 8:51 pm (#15 Total: 32)

I do all my own oil changes. But I've always used aftermarket filters. No more. Geez I learnt something from a blog.

firstwagon - Mar 25, 2008 5:12 pm (#14 Total: 32)

50 minutes is a good time. I like your floor jack, I have something simular. Best money I ever spent, factory jacks suck.

actualsize - Mar 25, 2008 4:54 pm (#13 Total: 32)

I bought 4 quarts, but it wasn't cheap. In honor of John Force, a fellow Yorba Lindian, I bought Castrol GTX.

With a filter change, the xB capacity is 4.5 quarts. But all of it doesn't drain out, so in cases like this I'll put in 4, drive it around a bit, then recheck and buy and add a portion of a 5th quart later, if needed. (If this were my own car, I'd have bought five and put the remainder on the shelf--but it's not, so I didn't.)

As it stands, the oil level is 2/3 of the way between a quart low and full. That is, nearly full.